Switzerland is one of the most fantastic cycling countries I have had the pleasure of visiting, from the fantastic cycle routes, to the methodically and intricately planning cycling maps, its a pleasure to visit and enjoy the land. Dropping from the Gotthard Pass we encountered dedicated cycle roads, and even dedicated cycle tunnels!
How about this, cycle lanes with their own dedicated traffic lights :)
When we had to share tunnels with vehicles, there was ample space for cycles and a culture of cycle acceptance on the roads that was fantastic to experience. We ended up camping beside one of the crystal clear and cold lakes in the region.
We started the next day cycling through the Swiss countryside on the North South Cycling route #3 (see the official Swiss site for the maps Cycling in Switzerland. We bought a map and used the #3 route descriptions from the site as our guide. It led us through backcountry paths alongside rivers and behind farms. It was a great way to see Switzerland and the rides, mostly under trees, were cool in the summer heat. Here is a Swiss village from one of the tracks
That evening we were again beside another lake this time one with a stunning sunset.
The campground we were at were preparing for the match of Switzerland vrs France in the World Cup football. It was a lavish affair with many wide screen TV's, food, beer and a live band. Noise curfew for the camp was noted at 10pm, and we wondered as we listened from our tent to the band and the loud talking, just what would happen at that time.
Sure enough right on time the music stopped, and apart from a few people talking promptly at 10pm people went to bed. We had the experience of being in a German campground the next night when Germany played against Poland. Again the same sounds of supporters, but this time they caroused until well after midnight. It was interesting watching the different personalities of the populations, the Swiss were polite, friendly and inclusive with their enthusiasm for their team, whilst there seemed to be an undercurrent of latent aggression in support in the German campground.
When we were in Marmaris we saw the population when the finals of the domestic Turkish football match was played. The reaction of the Turkish supporters had to be seen to be believed, Shouting, yelling, driving around the streets continually tooting, waving huge flags. The enthusiasm of the win lasted until the early hours of the morning. Heaven help the tourists if Turkey wins the World Cup, I imagine the hospitals would be inundated with Turkish supporters having heart attacks over the excitement of it all. In contrast to the alcohol focused and fuelled evenings in Switzerland and Germany, there was little sign of alcohol amongst the Turkish supporters and no signs of drunkenness, just pure enthusiasm.
We had still to work out how to return to Germany, either via the Rhine, which was easy, or over the Black Forest, which was hard. Only wimps go up the Rhine, we decided. We might be stupid, but we weren't wimps, so the next day changed our track and focused on reaching the Black forest. After 80kms of fantastic and easy riding through the heart of Switzerland, we reached the border with Germany at Waldshut.
Typically we were ignored by the border police and rested at a petrol station at the bottom of what was going to be a massive climb. The temperature, in the shade, at the petrol station, about 3pm was this...
35 degrees Celsius. I had to photograph it as it was hard to believe. From Waldshut we began our climb in the afternoon heat on a freshly tarred black top road, which was still being tarred as we climbed. With the road works, the best place to cycle was right in the middle of the road avoiding the climbing traffic, while the downward traffic had been detoured away.
The gradient was such that we were both in the lowest cogs, just inching our way skyward. I love heat, and although the physical work itself was hard enjoyed the climb, however for Beate the heat drained her. Half way through the 18km climb she complained of heat stroke and we sheltered at a bus stop under cover recuperating by eating tomatoes and drinking water. After the break we continued and found at the top we had climbed about 700 meters.
We camped at Schluchsee, a lake high in the forest. In total that day we cycled 123km. Our longest yet, and the climb would rank as one of our hardest because of the heat.